Aedes De Venustas - Pelargonium
Una versione barocca contemporanea del geranio evidenzia la grazia grezza del pregiato materiale olfattivo.
Una natura morta sorprendentemente elegante nel profumo, Pelargonium ritrae il suo omonimo ingrediente come una delle misteriose composizioni floreali dei dipinti olandesi dell'Età dell'Oro.
"La mia ispirazione estetica è stata un fiore vecchia scuola che tutti pensano di conoscere, anche se nessuno lo sa davvero", afferma la profumiera Nathalie Feisthauer, che estrae il geranio dalle profondità della piramide olfattiva per mostrarne le complesse sfaccettature, utilizzando foglie appena schiacciate fanno luce su legni scuri e resine.
Eppure questo lavoro del 2017 non è la varietà da giardino del geranio rosso. Il Pelargonium graveolens , il cui nome significa “dal profumo dolce”, produce una delle essenze più versatili della profumeria. Distillato dalle foglie della pianta piuttosto che dai suoi fiori, questo geranio è stato a lungo utilizzato come nota rosata fresca, da qui il suo nome vernacolare, "geranio rosa".
Qui, dice Feisthauer, il geranio è meno fruttato e più balsamico, quasi simile all'incenso, fungendo da motivo centrale di questa intrigante composizione. Il profumiere inizia stendendo una tela di fresche note di iris su un'ordinata cornice di legno di cedro. Poi dipinge uno sfondo scuro e fumoso di vetiver Haiti, legno di guaiaco e muschio. Percorsa da riflessi di cardamomo verde, la luce dorata del bergamotto calabrese pervade la scena, catturata da ingredienti riccamente strutturati che apportano volume e contrasto alla composizione. La dolcezza erbacea della carota arricchisce l'accordo di iris; la salvia sclarea ambrata suggerisce la morbidezza delle foglie vellutate. La resina di elemi, limone, pepata e simile all'incenso si esalta mentre una foschia di muschi ne leviga i bordi.
Aedes de Venustas Pelargonium è stata ora trasferita con cura in un nuovo prezioso recipiente: una bottiglia di vetro scanalato caratterizzata da accenti blu pavone, un tappo nero opaco con stemmi impressi e un design elegante ma pesante che segna il prossimo capitolo della storia di Aedes de Venustas. .
Man mano che viene indossato, il maestoso bouquet di Pelargonium assume una bellezza sobria e astratta, un'opera d'arte in evoluzione che trasmette liberamente la sua bellezza sulla pelle.
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